Multiple questions

[BlainS]

This forum has become the new build manual. A couple of questions that I’d like opinions on.

Flap handle-kit is only 6 months old so I presume it is the latest version. It seems to park too close to the floor. Like less then a 1/2” without any carpet. Thinking about adding a stop.

Rotisserie mounting of the fuselage- where do you attach tail without interfering with covering?

This is SS XL with Titan 340-what are the CG concerns as far as battery location? I plan on lightweight EarthX. Prefer it on firewall if CG isn’t an issue.

Baggage area floorboards- seems flimsy and prone to rattling. I don’t like rattles. Anyone reinforce or make some other modification?

Turtle deck- I like the idea of windows up there but are they really used? Formation is one thing but is it worth the solar heat gain?

Stick length- I was planning on bending for a little offset then I realized my short legs required the seat full forward. Probably don’t need an offset. But stick length seemed excessive. Is the leverage necessary to leave the stick long?

Not thrilled with the seat belt attach cables. Seems too close to control cables and pulleys. Any new ideas out there?

I have an Advanced 4500 EFIS in my other ship. Would like the same set up in this project. Panel real estate is a problem. Would like to see if anyone else successfully mounted an AFS EFIS.

OK this was more then a couple of questions.

[Clark in AZ]

PM sent.

Clark

[BDA]

Flap handle - I have Billy Payne’s flap handle and like it better for many reasons - plane fun Aiircraft

CG - I have an XL 340, and used the short engine mount, put earth x bat on firewall cg is good, but I have extended bagage area too

Turtle deck - Mine is 100% lexan and I love it - there is alot of heat gain- but I love that too - Alaska you know

Rotisserie - mount to rudder hinge

[BucF16]

IMG_0147.jpeg

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Flap handel = Stock Highlander

Rotisserie = See Pix I modified 2 Harbor Freight engine stands. If you do this pay the extra $10 for the 4 wheel, It's level.

CG = I'm not familiar with the XL Triton configuration.

Floorboards = I stiffened them. See Pix I also vinyl raped the top in fake carbon fiber.

Turtle deck = I like seeing out The Alaska boys all have Lexan turtle decks. I will have one mostly in .093 Lexan

I bent my sticks and my seat is all the way forward. The hight feels right.

I hope this helps!
Cheers Bruce

IMG_0145.jpeg

[stpilot09]

This forum has become the new build manual. A couple of questions that I’d like opinions on.

Flap handle-kit is only 6 months old so I presume it is the latest version. It seems to park too close to the floor. Like less then a 1/2” without any carpet. Thinking about adding a stop.

Rotisserie mounting of the fuselage- where do you attach tail without interfering with covering?

This is SS XL with Titan 340-what are the CG concerns as far as battery location? I plan on lightweight EarthX. Prefer it on firewall if CG isn’t an issue.

Baggage area floorboards- seems flimsy and prone to rattling. I don’t like rattles. Anyone reinforce or make some other modification?

Turtle deck- I like the idea of windows up there but are they really used? Formation is one thing but is it worth the solar heat gain?

Stick length- I was planning on bending for a little offset then I realized my short legs required the seat full forward. Probably don’t need an offset. But stick length seemed excessive. Is the leverage necessary to leave the stick long?

Not thrilled with the seat belt attach cables. Seems too close to control cables and pulleys. Any new ideas out there?

I have an Advanced 4500 EFIS in my other ship. Would like the same set up in this project. Panel real estate is a problem. Would like to see if anyone else successfully mounted an AFS EFIS.

OK this was more then a couple of questions.

Blain.. I don't know if you remember when you looked at mine, but I changed it from the solid metal to the all Lexan. I absolutely love it. I wouldn't go back. The visibility is great and I really don't notice it being too hot. I made it myself, using the sheet metal version as a template. Bent the Lexan is a sheet metal brake and used a piece of aluminum U channel as a stiffener, just like the ones Billy and Vic make.

Tim

[Clark in AZ]

Bent the Lexan is a sheet metal brake and used a piece of aluminum U channel as a stiffener, just like the ones Billy and Vic make.
Tim

Tim, what thickness Lexan did you use for the turtle deck?

Thanks,
Clark

[stpilot09]

Bent the Lexan is a sheet metal brake and used a piece of aluminum U channel as a stiffener, just like the ones Billy and Vic make.
Tim

Tim, what thickness Lexan did you use for the turtle deck?

Thanks,
Clark

Its right around 1/8".. .118 I think

[stpilot09]

few pix from when I first put it on. I forgot to mention, I went with a light tint.. Love it. This summer I'm gonna redo the windshield/top and doors with same stuff.

Tim

IMG_7921small.jpg

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[Clark in AZ]

Its right around 1/8".. .118 I think

Thanks, I tried bending 1/8" on my HF brake and couldn't do it. Maybe I need to take it to someone that has a more industrial brake.

Clark

[FlyerChief]

Hi Clark,
I did my turtle deck from the 0.090 tinted Lexan supplied in the kit on a 36" brake similar to the one you are talking about. The trick is to make sure the brake is gripping tightly and do two bends about 1/8" apart. There is an amazing amount of spring-back on .090" Lexan, so I did a full 90 degree bend and it sprang back to 45. I moved the piece out 1/8" and did another 90 degree bend. When it sprang back, the completed piece was 90 degrees. I think the double 45 makes a nicer looking corner on Lexan anyway and fits nicely around the longerons. It takes a lot of strength to do the bends, but it's do-able on 0.090 Lexan... not so sure about 1/8" stuff! Good luck!
Dan

Lexan Turtle Deck.jpg

[Clark in AZ]

Hi Clark,
I did my turtle deck from the 0.090 tinted Lexan supplied in the kit on a 36" brake similar to the one you are talking about. The trick is to make sure the brake is gripping tightly and do two bends about 1/8" apart. There is an amazing amount of spring-back on .090" Lexan, so I did a full 90 degree bend and it sprang back to 45. I moved the piece out 1/8" and did another 90 degree bend. When it sprang back, the completed piece was 90 degrees. I think the double 45 makes a nicer looking corner on Lexan anyway and fits nicely around the longerons. It takes a lot of strength to do the bends, but it's do-able on 0.090 Lexan... not so sure about 1/8" stuff! Good luck!
Dan

Lexan Turtle Deck.jpg

Awesome! Thanks for the info. I'm doing a full Lexan turtle deck. I was able to do the .063 that came in my kit without problem but it was too flimsy for me. My Home Depot/Lowes only carry the .125". I gave it a try but it was way too thick, I couldn't bend it even using a breaker bar on the brake. If I can find some .090 or less, I'll give it another try.

Another question: Do you have any pictures of the piece where the skylight and turtle deck meet? I'm looking at folding my wings regularly and would like to fabricate a piece that doesn't require fasteners across the top of the turtle deck. A slot to capture the top edge of the turtle deck.

[FlyerChief]

Hi Clark,
There should be .060 for the doors and .090 for the windshield and sunroof with the kit from JA.
Anyway, on my last Highlander, I used the aluminum turtle deck and just recessed a narrow strip of .040 under the rear edge of the sunroof to allow the turtle deck to insert under the sunroof about half an inch. On this one, I will be using a thin strip of aluminum to create a similar lap, with rivets holding the sunroof side of the strip. Short of trying to bevel the Lexan over a significant distance (1/4" to 1/2" or so), I don't know how else you could create the seal between the roof and deck without the aluminum strip. Maybe someone else has another idea of how it could be done.
Dan

[SheepdogRD]

When using the slot to capture the front of the turtledeck, I've seen a light aluminum angle attached to the underside of the turtledeck, just behind the attach point. That stiffens the turtledeck front edge enough that it's easier to get into the slot, and the turtledeck is less floppy when removed. I don't remember whose Highlander had that, but I put it in my builder notes.

[Clark in AZ]

Thanks guys for the ideas. I'll be focusing on this shortly. I'll report back with my solution, if I come up with one.

Clark

[stpilot09]

Its right around 1/8".. .118 I think

Thanks, I tried bending 1/8" on my HF brake and couldn't do it. Maybe I need to take it to someone that has a more industrial brake.

Clark

Yeah you need a substantial brake to bend 1/8'.. I tried the HF crap, didn't work, found someone on the field with a much bigger brake. No issue after that. I can get some pix tomorrow of how the slot meets up at the top/forward position.

Tim