(15) Landing Gear ( Mike )

[planecrazzzy]

Hey Guys,
I forgot to log this .... I'll try to go over things... But some measurements aren't going to be available....

If you need a measurement , write me and I'll measure mine...
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OK The "Board".... Take care of "the Board" because you'll need it over and over....

This board is the same one you should have used putting the mount bushings on front of your fuselage....

You might wanna draw your lines on it.... and include the Datum center....

Here's how I started.... The board was set-up and leveled...
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The lower tube was "Lowered" from stock.... I don't remember why... But I think the print measurements

weren't working , I have old prints... Newer prints might have been revised...
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Also , I made my Bushings a pinch long , I'll trim them to size later ...
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Gotta Fly...
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[planecrazzzy]

OK,
Next , I positioned the lower 2X4.... it has a "Bow" in it... No problem , I snapped a straight line on it....

The 2X4 is "back" and "down" per print...

The print angles of this are misleading ( the drawing )

My "board" needed clearance for the legs to clear... This also gave a little support...

The axles are set up per print... a 1/16" welding rod under each end , gives the proper "Toe-in"

and measuring from the straight line , 5/8" is measured at the heel of the axle...

( This 5/8" measurement looks GOOD after the engine and wings are loading the gear.. )

The Axle "Sockets were welded ahead of time , and drilled for the gear leg...
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Gotta Fly...
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[planecrazzzy]

next, more picture views....
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One note , I took my time grinding the lower tube for a good fit side to side and clear the gear socket...
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This is a flimsy set-up.... if you ever bump it.... You need to re check everything...

But it saves building some crazy Jig....
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. Gotta Fly...
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[planecrazzzy]

Next,
You can see the lower tube has been ground to fit way down , under the socket....

Before cross tubes are put in... Square must be double checked.... the cross tube will "Lock" things in place ...
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Gotta Fly...
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[planecrazzzy]

Hey Guys,
I put the gear "on" the fuselage before welding... ( see Pictures )

Two reasons... First , make sure it's right before you weld it...

and second , I wanted to weld as much of it as I could , while it was being held....

This would help with controlling Warping....

OK, it's gonna be a little hard to put on.... The Fuselage area has already been welded , and has "Shrunk"

After you weld the Landing gear mount , it will shrink , and fit perfect....

Anywho,
I weld everything I can while it's bolted to the fuselage...

Then take it off and finish welding , Keeping "balance" of welds in mind.....

Which you should know by now....

If not , I can explain it to you...
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Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
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PS Have some bolts that you can hammer on....and you could also "point" them a little.... ( Or round them )
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[trackwelder]

it may be a little late to ask the question, but I can not find a measurement for the angle of drop from your board laid flat, to the plane of the axles, the angle of the mount to upper mount should resolve if I set the 5/8 inch on the gear, but how far down should the axles be compared to the landing gear. I have finally been cleared for physical therapy after the last back surgery and have already torn out a titanium rod, I don't have pictures but have been finish welding the rest of the fuselage, If I can get the landing gear done I might even be able to sand blast and primer my fuselage this fall.

[planecrazzzy]

If you check the print...page 2... I see a measurement of 9-3/4 inch...

BUT.... that is center of the axle... So add half the axle thickness...
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Gotta Fly...
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[trackwelder]

Thank You, I missed that, I kept looking for it on the landing gear mount drawing.

[planecrazzzy]

Latest progress on the Landing gear is Making "Pine" stiffeners / Dampeners in a streamline shape.
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When I bought the two 2X4's.... The selection was crap...
But I pictured where I could cut a piece without knots...checked for twists
and barely found two boards...

The pieces I cut should support evenly...
Both front pieces come from the same board...
Back pieces the same...

I have watched the Arnold Co u tubes... He explains "Horner" pretty good...
I got my formula from this Clip...
He starts to explain what I was looking for @ 4:45 in the video...
Moldless, Low Drag Wheelpants

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjOt76LcKjU

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I took a picture of my chicken scratch math...
If you watch the video... You'll get an idea of what I'm trying...

The 3.7 : 1 ratio , with the widest point @ 37% the length...

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After I get these pieces fit... I'll be putting two "Sleeves" on them...( Fiberglass )
But that's a different learning project.

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Gotta Fly...
JAM

[planecrazzzy]

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Cutting the odd shapes...
I've seen wood guys do something like this before...
i have extra wood around the piece I'm cutting.
So I screwed a board onto my piece parallel to the cut.

The guide on the saw lets the board "pass" without cutting it...
Only the "Part" being shaped gets the cut.

After , the excess wood on the ends gets trimmed on a chop saw.
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I like the tight grains in the wood.
This is very good for THIS application...

I've heard of SOME people still having issues with wobble...( Alignment ? )
I want stout.

Jim Clement said to use PINE... Good enough for me.
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Gotta Fly...

[planecrazzzy]

Next step , I put lay-out lines on the wood.
Then I tried a HOG bit on my die grinder... It cuts great

But... I needed to mark how deep to cut...

I clamped the piece to a straight board...
One end had a 1/4 inch spacer to RAISE it...

The saw was set at 11/16 in...
Running the wood through gives me a depth...
From .6875 to .4375

The gear is 1.375 in at the top and .875 at the bottom

This is good for now...
Final fit will need the weight off the gear to straighten the bow out of them.
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Gotta Fly...
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PS The pencil line is hard to see when I'm gouging out the tapered rod area.
I went over them with a fresh Sharpie Marker...it's a clean line.
Pressing harder with a pencil would just bounce around the HARD grains and dig in the soft grains.

[planecrazzzy]

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I got all four pieces close...
The bit I'm using in the Die Grinder shaped the wood easy.
They are only rough cut , but this roughness is close enough for the Windshield adhesive later.

Now... It's a matter of blocking up the fuselage...
Getting the Spring Rod Landing Gear straight will help "Fit" the wood pieces easier.

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Gotta Fly...

[planecrazzzy]

As I was organizing the tools to get the plane off the "Mains"
For now... Just lifting the engine gets the gear straight.
That will work during "Fit-up"
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Gotta Fly...

[planecrazzzy]

After the lay-out lines were used to hog out MOST of the material to clear the Spring Rod , I needed a way to fit the two half together.
.I don't want oils or wax... Hmm....pencil ? Graphite ?....
I've got a Fireplace and CHARCOAL !!!!!! Cool...

So... After I wipe the Spring steel with charcoal , I sandwich the wood pieces in place... Squeeze and twist slightly...
Now the high spots can be ground down...

I repeat this until the wood pieces "meet" the full length.
It makes a very good fit.

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Gotta Fly...

PS Notice the Charcoal Applicator has a nice wooden handle.... it looks so real

[planecrazzzy]

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........CNC........ Hmmmm,

More like See N See.... see the marks "N" see where to grind..
Coating the spring rods lasts a few times...
I also had some gloves to rub it on.
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Tip ...Keep the pieces close to the angle they fit... The rods vary slightly even with the weight off.
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Gotta Fly...