Highlander 393

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Includes: Highlander, Escapade, Summit and SuperSTOL.
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Tralika
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Location: Wasilla Alaska

Re: Highlander 393

Post by Tralika »

danerazz wrote:What did the inspector want to see? What were their sticking points or items of focus? What did your documentation look like as far as receipts and build log? Was the data plate issue a first-name-last/last-name-first thing?

On the EAA website there is a video called "Webinar - Your Airworthiness Inspection - Be ready". One of the presenters is a DAR. It might be a good resource if you concerned about your inspection. In my case the inspection was pretty straight forward. About 20% of the time looking at the airplane, the rest of the time looking at paper and filling out forms.
John Nealon
Wasilla, Alaska
Highlander Extreme #191
mykitlog.com/jnealon
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BucF16
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Re: Highlander 393

Post by BucF16 »

danerazz wrote:What did the inspector want to see? What were their sticking points or items of focus? What did your documentation look like as far as receipts and build log? Was the data plate issue a first-name-last/last-name-first thing?

I bet the part they liked the most was the flap springs!
By July 1st what I'm writing will be OBE (Over Come by Events). According to my FAA inspector, The FAA will mandate "AWC" (Airworthiness Certification). The link below will explain the site:

https://www.faa.gov/aircraft/air_cert/a ... _Guide.pdf

This is one of the reasons I was in a hurry, because my inspector said it may take him a "Couple of Months" to get up to speed on it.

So for those who will actually get an inspector to come to your shop, Here's what my inspector looked at. Every Switch had to be labeled, even if "Spare". Every control but the stick had to be labeled (Flaps, Trim, Parking Brake...) with direction of use (Nose up, Nose down ect....). As you noticed, being a water-cooled engine, I intend to fly the first few Hours without the cowl. He was OK with that. The PAX Warning placard was on the left. Once I explained that, like Troy and Jonas, I will fly from the right seat, that was OK. (Too many years flying USAF Fighters, Cubs, Pitts, all with the stick in the Right hand, and thrust in the Left.) The Airworthiness Application 8130-12 had to be printed 2 sides, not 2 sheets. Be VERY careful that you take note what is a "Make" (Yamaha), and what is a "Model" (R10X or in my case Apex). He did not like my condition inspection sigh-off. So don't actually fill that out till he gets there.

Firewall forward he Said "Well I Haven't seen one of those". So he just asked question about why and How I came to the choice of the Apex. He looked closely and the rest of the airplane and said, "Nice Job"!

I haven't looked much at the AWC site (you need a log-on), But it appears that the inspector my not have to come to your shop. Let me know if you find out otherwise.

Good Luck Dane, Sheepdog, Shawn!

Cheers, Bruce
Bruce Johnson Highlander # 393
"Because I fly, I envy no man on Earth"
Builder web site:
http://www.bruceshighlander.blogspot.com
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BDA
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Location: Kenai Alaska

Re: Highlander 393

Post by BDA »

Thankyou for this update, i had heard nothing about this even w FAA guy coming this week.

Going to be an interesting week.
SuperStol XL Alaskan With Titan 340
N331AK. Shawn Taplin
Wing extensions,Symetrical Airfoil tail ribs (NACA 21)
Mods in progress: Heavier struts, Double slotted flaps
Goal: 15mph no wind
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BucF16
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Location: Alexandria, Ohio

Re: Highlander 393

Post by BucF16 »

I feel like Elon at SpaceX. Try to make it fail. I did!

I have the Matco E Series double caliper with 1/8" lines. With the the parking brake, the routing was unique due to the battery, and solenoids being on the firewall. Bleedings has been difficult. So my question; I have had to reroute the 1/8th in. lines a few times. This last reroute I can't get the line through the feral to reinstall. DO these have to be replaced after a few clamp downs?

Thanks,
Bruce
Bruce Johnson Highlander # 393
"Because I fly, I envy no man on Earth"
Builder web site:
http://www.bruceshighlander.blogspot.com
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danerazz
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Location: Bangor

Re: Highlander 393

Post by danerazz »

The ferrules first the 1/8 lines should slip over the line completely. If you take them off after they were tightened you have to replace them.

I had a bunch that were “pre-tightened” (I think I got used ones somebody returned) and had to replace them. The ferrules should slip completely onto the line. They are brass and deform to clamp the lines. It DOES NOT TAKE MUCH PRESSURE to tighten them enough that the line will not slip in.

How are you bleeding them? I used a large fluid syringe and put a hose on it that I clamped onto the bleeder fitting on the caliper and pushed it through bottom-up (I don’t have a pressure pot). I did break lines at the parking break valve to get a couple stubborn bubbles out instead of running a gallon of 5606 through the system.
Dane

Paralysis by analysis
#242
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BucF16
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Location: Alexandria, Ohio

Re: Highlander 393

Post by BucF16 »

Thanks Dane. As I expected. I'll order more 1/8 caps and ferrules. and Yes the parking Brake was where I had to break the line to bleed it. I have the ATS garden spray bleeder.
Bruce Johnson Highlander # 393
"Because I fly, I envy no man on Earth"
Builder web site:
http://www.bruceshighlander.blogspot.com
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danerazz
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Re: Highlander 393

Post by danerazz »

As long as you don’t have to take the nut/ferrule off the line it is fine, but again, I cannot stress enough: it takes SURPRISINGLY LOW torque on the nut to close the ferrule enough you can’t get it on the end of the line! Ask me how I know!
Dane

Paralysis by analysis
#242
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