Slow build SS wings

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Slow build SS wings

Postby Wmilbauer » Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:36 pm

Make sure the slat bearings fit in their slots on the brackets attached to the forward spar before you rivet the leading edge, it will save you a lot extra work.
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Re: Slow build SS wings

Postby accent air » Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:25 pm

I made a reaming tool for that problem if you or anyone needs it
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Re: Slow build SS wings

Postby Familyflyer » Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:42 pm

I will be starting my wings this weekend, fuse is now ready for pre cover inspection. If we all post tricks and hints here, I am sure it will help many. If there is any other items, let's get the list going :D
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Re: Slow build SS wings

Postby Familyflyer » Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:42 pm

Use the hole in the drag tube bracket that keeps the bracket tight to the rib. Sometimes I first drilled the hole closest to the rib and sometimes not. The bracket tight to the rib will achieve the correct alignment for the drag tubes.

Be sure to attached the strut attach bracket to the spars before you get to far. I need to confirm this, but I got a verbal of 98" from the root end of the spar to the centre of the lift strut bracket hole. The bracket is centered on the very bottom of the spar, located by scraping a piece of aluminum spanning from spar to spar.
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Re: Slow build SS wings

Postby Wmilbauer » Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:35 am

While you are measuring the 98 inches also measure the 50 1/2 on the front and rear spar for what I think is called the jury strut attach bracket
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Re: Slow build SS wings

Postby Familyflyer » Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:15 pm

I have one wing done for the most part and the second wing drilled and ready for disassembly and deburring. Here is a few more things I have learned to save you time and make things easier.

1) Radius the flat spot closest to the spar of the AAW-0007 and the AAW-0051. You need to notch it out so the strut support bracket will clear. It is much easier to do off the spar.
2) Drill the cable holes in the number 6 and 7 ribs before assembly. Use ribs 1 to 5 as a guide for the holes. Rib 7 needs one hole and rib 6 needs two.
3) Drill out the cable holes in the AAW-0051 as well on the bench, they both need all three cable holes.
4) Drill your tank attach points and install rivnuts before you rivet the leading edge skin.
5) Do not attach the trailing edge strut bracket until trial fitted to the wing. This will ensure proper placement. You can match drill, debur and prime the trailing edge skins, just do not rivet until bracket location can be drill and riveted.
6) I did all the drilling and deburring of the spar holes inside and out before installing the I beam reinforcing. The orientation is critical for the holes to work. I could actually use the drilled holes to ensure proper placement/orientation.
7) Placement of the lift strut attachment may not end up being on perfect center. I used a long drill bit and confirmed the orientation of the bracket first and also tried the lift strut. So really scribing the spar was not of much use other than to see how much off center I was. I needed to be about 1/2 out to be perfect. Trouble is the struts themselves are not perfect so some prying for installation will likely still be required. If I used the center rivet line for placement, the strut would have been very difficult to install.
8 ) Rib number 19 needs to be notched to clear the lift strut.
9) Your wing kit may end up needing the rib 9 installed opposite to the drawing. If so just add and angle for wing tip attach point.
10) All end ribs need to be reinforced for the fabric tension. I used 020X1-1/2" strips. I bent these and reinforced the end rib for wing tip attachment. So Top of rib #2. Bottom of rib #1 and both top and bottom of rib #9.
11) I also reinforced the front edge of the trailing edge skin behind the tank. You have to make sure you leave enough clearance for the pulley and spring though.

That is about it for now. Instructions would make the process so much easier. But it is still doable with the drawings and phone calls. If this is your first time building, just breath as I am sure it will be very frustrating at times. :D I will get some pictures of these specific areas shortly.

So I got the kit just before Osh, fuse is pretty much ready for cover, wing #1 is 95% done, wing #2 is 30% done. Flaps and ailerons are complete. Its not a huge project and I am having lots of fun.
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Re: Slow build SS wings

Postby Wmilbauer » Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:00 pm

The bracket that the aileron attaches to can be installed in two directions but should be installed in a position with the greatest downward angle. Approx 22 degrees measured from the bottom.
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Re: Slow build SS wings

Postby Familyflyer » Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:09 pm

Yes I learned that about the aileron bracket when the aileron was all out of line. I was worried my spar brackets were miss located. Easy change after I figured it out.

There is a bumper sleeve that fits inside the slat spar for the rubber bumper to attach to. Make sure these get installed before the bottom skin. They are not shown on the main slat drawing.
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Re: Slow build SS wings

Postby Wmilbauer » Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:20 pm

Has any one had any problems getting the flaps adjusted on the SS I had to reduce the length of the inboard control tube to get the flap to fully retract and the spring will not retract the flap without assistance. It does not seem like there is sufficient spring tension. Any comments or additional information would be welcome
Thanks
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Re: Slow build SS wings

Postby Familyflyer » Sat Oct 12, 2013 11:35 pm

I am just working on this now. It looks like I have to cut the rod as well or the arm will hit the tank. I really think the orientation of the spring arm should be a bit different of an angle for the flap to retract fully. The airflow will push it up so I do not think it is an issue. I think even if it worked at the start, the spring will get week over time and it will not fully retract.
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